One crock. One bad idea.
Everything since has been an attempt to justify the first batch.
In the spring of 2019, Margo Dunleavy bought a thirty-dollar stoneware crock, carried it up four flights of stairs, and set it on the only flat surface in her one-bedroom apartment — which was, technically, the radiator. She had a recipe written on the back of a receipt, a bag of cucumbers she'd argued about at the farmers market, and a plan that everyone she told described, generously, as "a lot."
The first batch was a disaster. The second was a slightly more confident disaster. By the fourth, something happened that she still describes only as the crunch — a snap so clean and so smug that she stood in the kitchen and said, out loud, to no one, "well, now I have to do this forever."
We brine slowly, on purpose
Most pickles you buy are not fermented. They're cucumbers that met hot vinegar and were asked to behave. That's fine. That's also not what we do. We salt, we submerge, and then we leave the crock alone for as long as it takes — which is a number we can't tell you, because the brine decides and the brine doesn't keep us informed.
This makes us slower than is reasonable and worse at scaling than our accountant would prefer. We've made peace with both.
How we brine
It's not a secret, exactly. It's just boring to watch.
- Monday: cucumbers in. Salt. Water. A grape leaf, because tannins keep the crunch honest. Then the lid goes on.
- The waiting: the crock burps. We listen. We do not interfere. Interfering is how you get a soft pickle, and a soft pickle is a small, quiet tragedy.
- The taste test: when it's ready, it tells you. We bite. If it snaps with conviction, it gets a label. If it doesn't, it becomes our lunch and never speaks of this.
That's the whole method. Six years of refinement and the recipe still fits on the back of a receipt. We've simply gotten very good at leaving things alone.
Where we are now
The radiator is retired. We brine in a small workshop on the east side of Atlanta, in crocks we've named (we won't be sharing the names — they're undignified). We're still small on purpose. When you order a jar, someone here actually put it in a box. Probably Margo. She insists.
"We're not trying to pickle the world. Just a respectable corner of it." — Margo Dunleavy, founder